Thursday 19 September 2013

Rodellar.....

Well, I have just returned from a sweet 8 day trip to Rodellar in Spain. It would have been awesome to stay for longer but providing we new that London was calling the weekend after, that week was going to fit perfectly with other plans. This time it wasn't with Sam as he was going to be working but instead was with my Dad. He has just recently returned from working in Eritrea and was super keen to come out with me to Spain. We had checked the weather a few days before leaving and as always was looking AMAZING!!

Onwards to Kalandraka  ---->>

Day 1 - This first day didnt go to well. I think a mixture of not getting any sleep in the car the night before as well as not eating/drinking totally wiped me out. I decided to chill out for the rest of the day and most importantly get an early night.

Day 2 - After a decent 8 hour sleep I woke up feeling much better, I had decided to do as much mileage as I could around the 7b+ - 7c+ range. It went well and by the end of the day I had completed 10 routes all onsight. I also had a quick look at Hulk, managed all the moves and was psyched to give it another go.

Day 3 - I started the day by red-pointing 'Hulk' (8b+) in the Ali baba cave. This route felt pretty tricky to me as after having a couple goes I realised I cant toe hook for shit. In the end I used me heels which saved the day. We then headed back for a few drinks and I went for a 10 mile run. As the evening came round I was psyched to get back on the rock again so we headed to Ventanas and I managed to climb the classic 'A Crabita' (8a, onsight) Finished feeling fit ;-)

Day 4 - Straight back up to Ventanas where I warmed up on the super dynamic 'Via del Kim' (8a, onsight) then headed down to a wicked little sector called Maldita Codicia which practically sits in the middle of the river. I ticked a brilliant 7c and 7c+ which are both 5 star lines.

Day 5 - Ventanas was calling yet again, this time I went for a route called 'Citrus' (8a/+) this went down as a rather harsh warm up but the onsight was in the bag. Next up was 'Philipe Cuisiniere' (8b/+) The clips went in and after trying the moves I climbed the route on my 2nd attempt. What a fantastic climb!!!! After a good morning I headed down to try 'Welcome to Tijuana' (8c) again. I worked out a much better sequence for the top half and started going for serious red-points. I must have got through the start boulder about 4 times, 3 of which I fell on the top half and on the 4th I stuck the crux move and clipped the chains. This is one of my best days climbing by a long shot.

Lookiing back at the moves on Welcome...

Swing time after success on Ixeia!
Day 6 - It was a rather slow and cold start to the day but as the sun warmed us up we got our kit together and headed once again to Ventanas. I went straight for a route called 'Espirit Rebeld' (8a+/8b) I punched through the crux on my onsight but annoyingly I fell within a foot from the jugs, frustrated but happy with my effort! I rested a short while and then climbed to the top. AWESOME!!!! I then climbed a great route to the right called 'Montserrat' (8a/+, onsight) finishing the day with some amazing 7b+'s down at Aqest any si.



Welcome to Tijuana (8c)

Day 7 - The night before we had arranged with Jerome and Will to head over and check out La Piscineta for the day. On arrival I could barley contain myself. This wall was insane!!!! We all ticked this incredible (7b+) called 'Pim pam plouf'. Will and Jerome headed around the corner and climbed the almighty 'Adios Pepito (45m 8a, onsight). I managed to onsight 'Pieds nus dans le terre sacree' (8a) and 'Las dos golondrinas de la piscineta' (8a+) and finished the day with 'Adios Pepito'. I still cant believe how good that wall was. Will then climbed the stunning 'Cosi fan tutte (8a+). Good sends all round!!

Walking to Piscineta.....

Adios Pepito (8a)

Will crushing.....

Jerome cruzin the 7b+.....

Day 8 - Another steady morning chilling out playing table tennis and slack lining. Last day psyche got me up 'Ixeia' (8b+) 2nd go and a final big effort on 'Coliseum' (8a, onsight).




La Piscineta!!!

bare foot?

I would just like to say thanks to my Dad who supported me on that trip massively!! Rodellar is such a special place and I cant wait to return for some more 40m pumpers. Stoked!!!!

Going London for the weekend
 Bye x

No comments:

Post a Comment