Wednesday, 16 October 2013

Just sending......

Since coming back from Spain its been a very busy 3 weeks!.
 First up was a weekend spent at Ilkley and Caley. The weather couldn't have been any better so we got straight on the classic 'Desperate Dan' (E6 - solo) after a quick play on top rope, both Sam and myself sent it!! It a wonderful route with some interesting holds half way up.  Next up was 'DeathWatch' (E7), this was a climb that I had always wanted to do after watching Lu dispatch it in the film Hard XS. We brushed it up and again both stood on the top with a smile on our face. The crimps and slopers are perfect, just dont take the fall. I finished the day by sending the problem 'Ring Piece' (V8+).
The Great Flake E6, Caley.

The weekend after came around very quickly and this time we had all planned to go try 'Paralogism' (E7 6c) at the Roaches. Warming up on the route felt horrible but after a few tope rope goes it started to feel much better! Katy went ahead and climbed the route with ease, Dave then flashed, Sam bezzed his arse up and so its was just me left having not climbed it, so I had to do it Right? yeah I did! Awesome route!

Paralogism E7 6C, Roaches

Sunday was the BLCC’s at the new Awesome Walls in Sheffield. It was a brilliant opening event for the centre and they did a great job.
 The main competition wall was super steep and long and the setting was perfect, testing everyone’s ability.  It was nice feeling to meet up again with some of the competition regulars with whom I had spent many happy international trips over the past years. Must just mention Molly who climbed magnificently and rightly took senior and Junior womens title.  The first 2 qualifiers where around 7c+ and 8a+.  After those I was into the final in second place behind a strong Canadian climber Elan Mcrae who was the only person to top both routes.  Amazing effort!  The final route was rumoured to be 8b, straight through the main roof. It was very physical and had a very interesting 360 spin half way up. Anyway I managed to punch my way through the big roof falling at the first hold at the last lip. Elan put in a great effort, falling short by a few holds. It was a great feeling to retain my British Lead Champion title and thanks to organizers and BMC for hosting a fantastic competition. Good luck to Awesome Walls for the future.

First Qualification (7c+) 

Final of BLCC (8b)

After the competition I seemed to pick up a finger injury which made for a very slow boring week but many a press up and pull up were done so things were not all bad  . Dave and myself did manage to sneek an ascent of 'Fat Slapper' (E7 6c) at Eastwood Rocks. This is another big gritstone roof with actual holds all the way up. No smearing, No trusting bullshit, just god damn crimp punching bevieness ....Cool route!!

That weekend Sam and myself had planned to head down to Wales to meet up with 3 different photographers Nadir Khan, Dan Wildey and Andy Nelson. The plan was to get some footage climbing the amazing 'Cenotaph Corner' up at the Cromlech. Joe brown made the first ascent of this using only pebbles for protection and a hemp rope tied around his waist back in 1952 and graded it E1!? Oh and I almost forgot he did it with socks on!! Your kidding me? After watching Sam climb the route a couple times BUT with all the new gear and actual climbing shoes, it still looked spicy and terrifying at E1.  Its amazing to think these guys and girls climbed routes of this standard back. Hats off!! Nice one Joe!! lets just say I'm glad I wasn't climbing back in 1950's.....Safe! Anyway, it was a great weekend! Also just quickly I did manage to climb 'Diesel Power' (8A) on the last day after shooting a few pics with Nadir on the roadside boulders.....Finger is getting better!!!!!
You can see more from Nadir at -

Going to this!!!

Looking forward to this! get its booked!!!!
Booking Flights for Kranj World Cup! Psyched!!!

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