Well it’s been quite a
while since my last post so I thought I’d better write a little update on my
recent adventures.
Hen
Cloud, Staffordshire
The Awesome arete on the left (B4XS)
This
is a place that has always scared me for some reason. It stands tall
and imposing, overlooking the Roaches. For a long while my main focus
was trying to finish a climb called 'B4XS,' which is apparently
classed as 'The End of the Affair' for Staffordshire and for a bloody
good reason! The run out is hilarious and the climbing very insecure.
I personally think it’s a little harder than EOTA and worthy of the
grade E8 6C! I hate to imagine what would happen if you were to blow
it on the last few moves. The route itself starts halfway up the
cliff on a mini ledge where the belayer stands and tries to spot as
best as possible. My belayer was Sam and I trust that bugger!
Luckily, after a few very frustrating hours sitting at the bottom
wondering whether I should have a go, I went and I made it! Possibly
the best feeling I've ever had when it comes to sending hard
traditional routes. Finally, after climbing this route I felt like
I could move on…
Majorca
Es Funky
This
is Deep Water Soloing at its best! This is a trip that Sam, Al and I
have wanted to go on for so long! We booked flights and the psyche
just started to build and build! Too much as it happened, as the
night before we were set to fly off we decided to have one last
training session and POP! I heard a long snap in my left ring finger,
followed immediately by a sudden aching and stiffness as I thought it
was all over. Nevertheless, after 24 sleepless hours I decided to go
along regardless – if only to be the trip cameraman! Thankfully
with some serious taping and warming up I found that I was actually
able to climb a few routes, though mainly ones with good holds! No
crimping for me!
Beautiful Rest day!
Trying to be serious!
The team!
Ejector Seat 7c (flash)
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Strangers in Paradise 7b+ (flash)
psyche was high after Diablo
These are just a few routes I managed to send:
Smash
it in! 8A (flash)
In
The Night, Every Cat is Black! (8a)
Stranger
in Paradise (8a)
Bandito
(7c flash)
Ejector
Seat (7c flash)
Strangers
in Paradise (7b+ flash)
Afroman
(7b onsight)
Metrosexual
(7a+ onsight)
Calamares
(6b onsight)
Slice
of Heaven (5a onsight)
We
have since decided to aim to plan a DWS trip each year because it is
so much fun! My favourite style!
On
our return I realised that my finger wasn't right and that rest was
needed, which is exactly what I did! I took almost a full month off
over Christmas, which is the longest I have had in the last 10 years.
Sam and I spent Christmas in Wiltshire, which was fantastic - a run
on Christmas day, far too much food and we even managed to get out in
the canoe for Sam's Birthday. Next up was New Year at the Le Brun's
in Somerset. I had an absolute blast, meeting new people, watching
far too much Harry Potter, cleaning out drains, making my first
gingerbread house, country walks and copious amounts of tea! It is
now one of my favourite places to go down to! An amazing family!
Wine and Harry Potter! Perfect start to 2015
Somerset
err more Harry Potter!
Countryside walk...
:-)
Once
returning home I got the run down from Sam who had spent the last two
weeks in Spain with Jose! Some 8a's onsights and now Murcia's most
wanted Man! Over the last month or so I have watched Sam get stronger
and stronger and it’s actually been really inspiring! It’s the
first time in a long while where Sam hasn’t been struggling with an
injury and my god is he cruising. He has completed various routes,
including Beau Geste (E7 6C) | Na'han (E7 6C) | Narcissus (E6 solo) |
The Crypt Trip (E6 6B) | Desert Island Arete (E6 6C) | Thin Air (E5
6A) | Early Riser (E5 6A) | On The Rocks (E7 6C) and even a boulder
problem, Famous Grouse (V9). Currently I'm trying to get back into
training and strengthening my finger.
We recently we spent a few days
climbing up in Northumberland, a very beautiful and quiet part of the
country! #Vanlife! I managed a few sends, Born Lippy (8A) | Vienna
(7B+) | Sprung (7C).
Now
that I'm back I am heading up to London for an Art Exhibition or
Expedition?! Have fun! Stay psyched and hope to see you out there....
5 Weeks till New York! So excited!
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