Tuesday, 3 March 2015

Grit - Majorca - Injury - Rest

Well it’s been quite a while since my last post so I thought I’d better write a little update on my recent adventures.

Hen Cloud, Staffordshire
                                                The Awesome arete on the left (B4XS)
This is a place that has always scared me for some reason. It stands tall and imposing, overlooking the Roaches. For a long while my main focus was trying to finish a climb called 'B4XS,' which is apparently classed as 'The End of the Affair' for Staffordshire and for a bloody good reason! The run out is hilarious and the climbing very insecure. I personally think it’s a little harder than EOTA and worthy of the grade E8 6C! I hate to imagine what would happen if you were to blow it on the last few moves. The route itself starts halfway up the cliff on a mini ledge where the belayer stands and tries to spot as best as possible. My belayer was Sam and I trust that bugger! Luckily, after a few very frustrating hours sitting at the bottom wondering whether I should have a go, I went and I made it! Possibly the best feeling I've ever had when it comes to sending hard traditional routes. Finally, after climbing this route I felt like I could move on…
Majorca Es Funky

This is Deep Water Soloing at its best! This is a trip that Sam, Al and I have wanted to go on for so long! We booked flights and the psyche just started to build and build! Too much as it happened, as the night before we were set to fly off we decided to have one last training session and POP! I heard a long snap in my left ring finger, followed immediately by a sudden aching and stiffness as I thought it was all over. Nevertheless, after 24 sleepless hours I decided to go along regardless – if only to be the trip cameraman! Thankfully with some serious taping and warming up I found that I was actually able to climb a few routes, though mainly ones with good holds! No crimping for me!

Beautiful Rest day!
Trying to be serious!
The team!
Ejector Seat 7c (flash)
Strangers in Paradise 7b+ (flash)
psyche was high after Diablo

These are just a few routes I managed to send:

Smash it in! 8A (flash)
In The Night, Every Cat is Black! (8a)
Stranger in Paradise (8a)
Bandito (7c flash)
Ejector Seat (7c flash)
Strangers in Paradise (7b+ flash)
Afroman (7b onsight)
Metrosexual (7a+ onsight)
Calamares (6b onsight)
Slice of Heaven (5a onsight)

We have since decided to aim to plan a DWS trip each year because it is so much fun! My favourite style!
On our return I realised that my finger wasn't right and that rest was needed, which is exactly what I did! I took almost a full month off over Christmas, which is the longest I have had in the last 10 years. Sam and I spent Christmas in Wiltshire, which was fantastic - a run on Christmas day, far too much food and we even managed to get out in the canoe for Sam's Birthday. Next up was New Year at the Le Brun's in Somerset. I had an absolute blast, meeting new people, watching far too much Harry Potter, cleaning out drains, making my first gingerbread house, country walks and copious amounts of tea! It is now one of my favourite places to go down to! An amazing family!
Wine and Harry Potter! Perfect start to 2015


err more Harry Potter!
Countryside walk...


Once returning home I got the run down from Sam who had spent the last two weeks in Spain with Jose! Some 8a's onsights and now Murcia's most wanted Man! Over the last month or so I have watched Sam get stronger and stronger and it’s actually been really inspiring! It’s the first time in a long while where Sam hasn’t been struggling with an injury and my god is he cruising. He has completed various routes, including Beau Geste (E7 6C) | Na'han (E7 6C) | Narcissus (E6 solo) | The Crypt Trip (E6 6B) | Desert Island Arete (E6 6C) | Thin Air (E5 6A) | Early Riser (E5 6A) | On The Rocks (E7 6C) and even a boulder problem, Famous Grouse (V9). Currently I'm trying to get back into training and strengthening my finger.

 We recently we spent a few days climbing up in Northumberland, a very beautiful and quiet part of the country! #Vanlife! I managed a few sends, Born Lippy (8A) | Vienna (7B+) | Sprung (7C). Now that I'm back I am heading up to London for an Art Exhibition or Expedition?! Have fun! Stay psyched and hope to see you out there....

5 Weeks till New York! So excited!

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