SPAIN, ummm enough said!!!
Its been a good few months since my last blog which I think was before Christmas. Anyway to cut a long story short after returning from a great trip to Spain where I managed to flash my first proper 8b+ Kalea Borroka I was booked to head out to Vancouver Island for a solid month of training. I had been invited over to stay with Kimanda and train with some of the strong Canadian youths. I had an absolute blast. I managed to keep a tab on my days climbing and in total I trained 22 out of the 28 days there. It was epic. It was incredible refreshing to meet so many new people and more psyched climbers who are preparing for the upcoming competitions. Victoria itself was such a cool city and I just cant wait to return......
Rest day in Victoria
Great crew......
It didnt keep me off!!!
Since returning from Canada its been pretty quiet. A few team trainings and a bit of rope access work up in the Lake District im home and feeling psyched. For a good few weeks I found it very difficult to get anything outdoors done especially when you have not had one day out for 2 solid months, but as the weather is actually starting to get better I have felt that motivation creep back and over the last week its been fantastic. Almost forgot but Sam and myself had a quick hit up at Bamford where we both sent 'Avoiding the Traitors' (E7 6C) and more recently Sam made an Impressive ascent of Simba's Pride (E8 6B)
S dawg sticking the final move on 'Simbas Pride' (E8 6B)
Sam pulling the lip on 'Avoiding the Traitors' (E7 6C)
Bamford warm up!
Our view from Bamford edge
Rope Access in The Lake District
First up it was the CWIF in Sheffield. Always a super fun boulder competition ending with a tense final. On the day I felt very sluggish, not ideal. It was the first time I have ever climbed with a swollen knee. To tell you the truth it was a very uncomfortable and sore few hours but I was just excited to be there and see so many people. I ended up with around 245 points which was miles off getting into the semis but I was still happy to have competed. The final was yet again very entertaining with Tito managing to flash all the final blocs...WTF?
A few days rest then came the good weather. Sam and myself headed up to Stanage to try the classic 'Ulysses Bow' (E6 6B). This is an ultimate arete climb with tiny pebbles for feet and with moves that get harder the higher you go. After cleaning/chalking/few top rope goes and a ridiculous amount of time just starring up at the final moves wondering whether I should go for it....I did! It felt great! One down.....
Next day I was up in Kendal for the Petzl Leading Super Route Competition. I have already written a small piece for them so have a read if you interested -
‘Leaving the Peak District in pouring rain to head to the Kendal
Wall for the Petzl Leading Super Route Competition was a great pleasure, knowing
that I wasn’t going to come back completely soaked from a days outdoor climbing.
It was Steve McClure who invited me up for the event and on arrival it was great
to see so many familiar faces. The Kendal Wall is built over a number of levels
therefore a long lead wall competition like this does not stop regulars climbing
in other parts of the wall whilst the lead competition is taking place. The
route that Steve had set curved its way up the main head wall to finish in the
top right hand corner. The climb was graded at around 8b and each competitor was
allowed one flash go after it was demonstrated by Steve. The style was
incredibly pumpy and relentless requiring some top level endurance and strength.
After various coaching and master class sessions the lead competition got under
way with a number of spectators giving it a good competitive atmosphere. There
where some great efforts put in at all ages and as this was the first of such a
competition it would be great to think that there will be more competitors next
time. I was delighted to win and catch up with everyone.....
Many thanks for the invitation and to everyone at the Kendal Wall
for there support and to Steve McClure for setting the challenging route. I look
forward to the next meeting'
New Scarpa Booster S
The next day I felt Like I had been run over by a tractor. My whole body ached. Not to worry though, the sun was shining and Sam was already out the door waiting for me to get out of bed so we could head up to Millstone. No lie in for Edward. Upon arrival the two routes we wanted to try were wet so this called for a bru with Mike Hutton under a make shift boulder mat crib to shelter from the rain showers. The weather was very mixed that day but we battled through the wind and rain and both managed to climb 'The Bad and the Beautiful' (E7 6B) and before even sitting down for another cuppa, we then climbed 'Edge Lane' (E5 5B) Two amazing routes!!!
Sam on Edge Lane E5 5B
Who needs a belayer? Sam on the crux of Green death E5 6A
Me on Edge Lane E5 5B
Sam on Edge Lane E5 5B
Sam and Mike shelter from the wind and rain.....
Anyone need a professional rope coiler?
It was nearing the end of the day and our skin was a little thinner than we would have liked. I walked over to have a peek at Elm Street which has always looked impossible, but was intrigued to see what the moves felt like. A quick abseil down and the holds suddenly seem to appear, no good holds mind you! I made some good links and just decided to haver a go..... The first to goes went like a bag of turkish delight...so shit! On my 3rd goes I stuck the high crux and climbed to the top....Super happy! 'Elm Street' (E8 6C) Great day! Thanks again to Mike Hutton for taking some excellent pictures which will be floating around if you keep your eye's open ;-)
Me on the final moves of 'Elm Street' (E8 6C)
Good day out with the boyz......
CAC worldwide!!!!
Cheers
Egglswick the 4th
