SOUTH AFRICA - EXETER - DWS - PEAK

I have just returned from an amazing 6 week trip in South Africa! It was the first time back to South Africa since 2001, way before I had got into any sort of climbing.

We headed out mid July and arrived in a smoky Johannesburg after a quick change over in Cairo. After a long wait for the other team member to arrive Jose, we got in our Fiat Punto and headed off east into the night. Thankfully the drive was fairly straightforward along the main highway as it got dark very quickly. There were few nervous moments when we pulled off the main road in the town of Waterval Boven and couldn’t find the dirt road up to the camp. After a while driving around in the pitch black we stopped and asked for some directions and was pointed in the right way. The tarmac road quickly changed to dirt as we then realised why everyone drives 4x4 pick-ups in Africa! After a rather bumpy 7km up the hill side we arrived at the Tranquilitas Adventure Farm where we would camp for the next 2 weeks. We pitched our tents and quickly fell asleep. 

The next day we awoke to this amazing campite, perched on top of the escarpment overlooking the cliffs. It was truly spectacular and we couldn’t quite believe our eyes! We were greeted by a great Africaans farmer called Alwyn who managed the whole site. He was happy that we were staying and in no time at all we were in his bakkie (africaans for pick-up truck) getting a ride around the site as he showed us all the different cliffs. It was a brilliant start and a true African welcome.

Sam topping out on an awesome 7b+

Rest day fun at Boven

After seeing some of the crags that were just below the campground, we couldn’t get our bags packed quick enough and headed straight down to the cliff. We were greeted with some of the best climbing I've ever experienced. Bullet hard orange sandstone rising above the hillside for a good 30m. It was seriously impressive!

Chilling out by the fire

Lotters desire 7b+....Simply Incredible!

We then got into a great routine of 2 or 3 days on, one day off. Mixing it up between the God No sector and the Superbowl, two of the steepest and most impressive sectors in Boven. We basically threw ourselves at as many routes possible and climbed some of the most inspiring lines I’ve ever done. It was a sheer pleasure to be climbing such quality routes in the wilds of Africa with just a few other local climbers. Rest days were spent in the Kruger National park and mountain biking round the hillsides. Nights were spent sitting round a huge fire with a braai, eating large amounts of bourawors. It was perhaps the best 2 weeks climbing of my life!

I climbed so many awesome routes I could list them all but here were a few big hightlights :-) 

Godzilla 8b, Vorpal Sword 8b, The Beast 8a+ (flash), Welcome to Ovamboland 8a+, Hypertension 8a (flash), Jack of All trades 8a, Snap Dragon 7c+ (os) Lotters Dersire 7b+ (os), Monster 7c+ (flash), Tokolosie 8a (os), The Bovenator 7c (flash) felt like 8c!, Condor 7b+ (os), Rude Bushman 7a, Jose crushed the incredible Rolihlahla 8b on the last day. Awesome effort from the whole team. 

It was also brilliant to hang out with some of the local climbers who have put in so much effort bolting and sending the routes such as Andrew Pedley, Brian Weever (B-dog!), Gustav, Dirk, Flex. 

Also Alwyn, Philip and David at the campsite who were brilliant and kept us company.

It does not get much better than this!

First day psyche....shot down!!

After our time in Boven we then drove back to Johannesburg and caught a flight south to Cape Town. On arrival it felt like we had just flown into another country, as it was pouring down outside!!! The first rain we had seen all trip. A complete change from the extremely dry, arid environment up north.

After picking up a rather dodgy looking hire car we then drove a couple of hours north to a small seaside town of Yersfontain where we stayed a night on route to the bouldering mecca Rocklands in the Cedarburg Mountains. This is the place that every climber knows of, where the name represents the area so well. Boulders as far as the eye can see!

Rocklands Love!

Sam Bouldering?

We then spent the next 10 days exploring the endless amounts of boulders dotted around this beautiful region. From small ones to huge house-sized boulders, we climbed and climbed!! Rest days were spent in Lamberts bay and the hot baths. 

Yet another beautiful day in Rocklands

Success after Pinotage sit and Splash of Red.

Here is my list of boulders from the 10 days - 

A Tea With Elmarie 8A+

Royksopp 8A

Pendragon 8A

Herbie 8A

Wittness The Sickness 8A

Barracuda 8A

No late Benders 8A

Black Velvet 8A

Stalker on The Horizon 8A

Ron Ron et caramel 7C+

Splash of Red 7C+

Pinotage sit 7C+

Macho King 7C+

No late Tenders 7C+

Hole in One 7C+

Caroline 7C+

White Mazda Clan 7C+

Weich Ei 7C+ (flash)

Throw Yourself Away 7C+

Beserker 7C+

Poison dwarf Direct 7C+

Une Rime Stupide 7C+

Team Time 7C (flash)

Ceder Spine 7C (flash)

Jaws 7C (flash)

An Amal Rof 7C (flash)

The Rhino 7B+ (flash)

Un Petiti hueco dans Rocklands 7B+ (flash)

Minki 7B (flash)

Springbok 7A+ (flash)

John Denver 7A (flash)

Sunset Traverse 7A (flash)

The Rhino 7b+

Pendragon 8A

#halalcrew

Our final leg of the journey was spent in Montagu, a brilliant climbing area 2 hours east of Cape Town. A beautiful, quite spot cut through a steep gorge with rock walls on both sides. It's one of the main climbing areas in the country and a real mecca for the sport climber. We only spent three days there, climbing as many routes as possible to finish on a real high after such a successful trip. 

Montagu highlights;

Cool like that 7c+, Monkey Wedding 7c+ (os), First Starter 7c+ (os), My route by the River 8a+, Catholic School Girls Rule 8a, Point Break 8a (os)

Waterworld!

Happy after two days at Montagu!

Dirty days!

The last few days were spent whale watching, wine tasting and eating large quantities on the harbour seafront in Cape town. It was also brilliant to meet up with an old friend and a bit of a legend in South African climbing Ed February. Shared a lot of great stories.  

It was one the best climbing trips I’ve ever been on and really opened our eyes to the amazing quality of the climbing in South Africa. We also had the privilege of meeting some of the most friendly and psyched people I’ve ever come across. A real joy to be around.

Franschhoek 

Team of Wine drinking monsters!

Letting loose!

After what felt like a very long journey home, we arrived back in London and headed straight to Exeter for the first ever Deep Water Soloing competition. At first I wasn't totally convinced but after watching the qualifiers the psyche just started to build and I was getting super pumped for the following day. After climbing ok on the 3 semifinal routes/ (boulders ;-) ) I was so psyched and luckily made it into the final. For the first time ever I came out of isolation and jumped onto a boat to view the route? wtf? AMAZING! Great experience! There was a massive crowd and the route traversed the whole length of the wall. Im not totally sure but I think I finished in 4th place? maybe 5th! Whatever, It was one of the best competitions I have ever competed in ;-)! 

FAT!

Final!

As soon as the competition had finished we jumped in the van and headed south to Anstey's Cove for some real Deep Water Soloing. This area was unreal with plenty of amazing lines dotted around the point. Over the 2 days we ticked of 'Once a Dogger 7b+, Blue Planet 7b+ and Arapiles Oh Arapiles 7A+ (also caught 10 Mackerel). Then it was time to head Home finally! Back to the Peak District. Training - Coaching - thinking of next trip!?

Once a Dogger 7b+

Blue Planet 7b+

Destroyed!

This coming weekend is the BLCC's in Sheffield. Lezz GO!

Long. Live. The. Grit.

For the past couple months I have been unbelievably psyched for the gritstone and even though the warmer temperatures have started to creep in I haven't as of yet felt any need or pull to start climbing on the Limestone. This is a big change for me as normally around this sort of time I get stuck into some lime projects.

Anyway, lets go back a month and start from 'Simba's Pride' (E8 6B). This route has literally taken me the longest to complete out of any other. It took up to 5 visits which was actually very frustrating. Every time I seemed to get ready on the route it started raining, but finally we got a cold enough day and no rain and I managed to climb the bugga!!! It was a rather good feeling sticking the final jug...
CHECK THE VIDEO BELOW >>>>>



A week or so later our London homie Andre came up for a couple days with only one aim 'To climb another E7'....and that's exactly what he did. We both managed to climb 'White Lines' (E7 6C) up at Curbar!! It was actually quite incredible how quickly the route dried that day after a shite morning of solid rain.

White Lines E7 6C

After this the weather changed so we headed south to Portland. First time clipping a bolt in ages. The weather was awesome and it was a nice break from the Peak District. We climbed some new routes, but where actually a little disappointed with how dirty all the climbs were. It seemed like they havnt seen any action in years.....especially down on Dancing ledge.

Mucho Gusto! 7b+
Bust ya Boiler 7c 
Legendary Shadows 7c+
Breathing Method 8a

Picked up a hobo on my way south!!!

Fishing twat!

Back to the Peak and it was on to another new crag for us called 'Hipley Hill'. We wanted to check out a brilliant looking route called 'The Great Tribulation' (E6 6C/ 7c+) and brilliant it was. A steep limestone route but on trad gear. It was far from good connies but definitely climbable. The sequence through the roof is burly and the top finger crack is pretty spectacular. Sam and myself both managed to make an ascent!! Its well worth the visit BUT it sure aint no easy tick.....

 Crack climbing!

Next up was our day at Black Rock's. We met up with Panda and Jose and as per usual the psyche was very high. We started trying 'Velvet Silence' (E6 6C). This slab is unreal and almost feels impossible. It starts off with a weird mantle which then leads to a sketchy slabathon to the top. Not in anyway my cup of tea. For years I could barley do the first mantle. THIS DAY, This bloody day was for some reason different, I cleaned the green moss away and climbed straight to the top. No idea what just happened there but lets move on..... Great route!!!! It was clear blue skies and the sun was out fully beaming down on the crag! Not ideal for anything that was situated around Gaia. So we decided to go and clean up 'Meshuga' (E9 6C) which was thankfully in the shade... but only just!!! I first tried this route 3 years ago with Ben Heason managing to flash it on top rope (whatever that means) I then decided to leave it and....leave it for a little longer. After a couple goes refreshing myself on the moves and for the first time trying the top section, I began to think that I could actually do this....So after a good hour pissing about wondering whether I should go for it or not and listening to this tune over and over again -

Velvet Silence E6 6C

Meshuga E9 6C

We sorted the pads, I clipped the one and only cam on my harness and went for it. It went smoothly and I think its the most satisfied I have ever felt after a climb!! I never thought I could add 'Meshuga' (E9 6C) to my list of gritstone routes. Its worth mentioning Jose's ascent too. This was his first time up to Black rock's and he walked away with an E9. Could this be the first Spanish youth to climb this grade? Who knows.... We both then finished off the day with 'Curving Arete' (E5 6A)

Panda managed to get all ascents on film throughout the day so look out for the video soon.....

Malham was next - I was keen to try a couple of the longer routes on the left, so I got on 'Zoolook' (8a) a super classic route but HOLY SHIT its polished!!!!!! I climbed it on my 2nd try....awesome but wasn't feeling the love. The following day we hit up the top tear and got on 'Free and easy' (7c) Exposed much!!! We climbed it and then left.....Not massively psyched for Malham.


A week later we called up Al and bezzed over to Wimberry. This is a place both Sam and myself have wanted to check out for ages and ages. Its a good hour drive from the Peak and at least 45 mins walk in up a steep hill....That's more like it!! On arrival to the crag we could hardly contain our selves, so many hard routes! Unbelievable! My goal was to check out a route called 'Order of the Phoenix' (E8 6C) It was rather dirty so some cleaning was in order. Sam and Al went and climbed a spicy route called 'Blasphemy' (E2 5B). The moves on OOTP came together quickly and I felt pretty confident on having a go. This was our first visit to Wimbery so we didn't have any bouldering pads as they are a bastard to carry. I had already decided to have a go so to hell with boulder pads....Here is the video of the ascent!! Sam finished our day with a great send of 'Consolation Prize' (E5 6A) We both cant wait to get back this week.....

Here is the video of our afternoon up at Wimberry!!! >>>>



Also if you need a little psyche for your training CHECK OUT this video from Jon Clark featured on EpicTv.


7 weeks today we fly to South Africa!!! YESSSSSSSSSS...ENJOI!!!!!!

Its been a while......

SPAIN, ummm enough said!!! 

Its been a good few months since my last blog which I think was before Christmas. Anyway to cut a long story short after returning from a great trip to Spain where I managed to flash my first proper 8b+ Kalea Borroka I was booked to head out to Vancouver Island for a solid month of training. I had been invited over to stay with Kimanda and train with some of the strong Canadian youths. I had an absolute blast. I managed to keep a tab on my days climbing and in total I trained 22 out of the 28 days there. It was epic. It was incredible refreshing to meet so many new people and more psyched climbers who are preparing for the upcoming competitions. Victoria itself was such a cool city and I just cant wait to return......

Rest day in Victoria

Great crew......

It didnt keep me off!!!

Since returning from Canada its been pretty quiet. A few team trainings and a bit of rope access work up in the Lake District im home and feeling psyched. For a good few weeks I found it very difficult to get anything outdoors done especially when you have not had one day out for 2 solid months, but as the weather is actually starting to get better I have felt that motivation creep back and over the last week its been fantastic. Almost forgot but Sam and myself had a quick hit up at Bamford where we both sent 'Avoiding the Traitors' (E7 6C) and more recently Sam made an Impressive ascent of Simba's Pride (E8 6B)

S dawg sticking the final move on 'Simbas Pride' (E8 6B)

Sam pulling the lip on 'Avoiding the Traitors' (E7 6C)

Bamford warm up!

Our view from Bamford edge

Rope Access in The Lake District

First up it was the CWIF in Sheffield. Always a super fun boulder competition ending with a tense final. On the day I felt very sluggish, not ideal. It was the first time I have ever climbed with a swollen knee. To tell you the truth it was a very uncomfortable and sore few hours but I was just excited to be there and see so many people. I ended up with around 245 points which was miles off getting into the semis but I was still happy to have competed. The final was yet again very entertaining with Tito managing to flash all the final blocs...WTF? 

A few days rest then came the good weather. Sam and myself headed up to Stanage to try the classic 'Ulysses Bow' (E6 6B). This is an ultimate arete climb with tiny pebbles for feet and with moves that get harder the higher you go. After cleaning/chalking/few top rope goes and a ridiculous amount of time just starring up at the final moves wondering whether I should go for it....I did! It felt great! One down.....

 Next day I was up in Kendal for the Petzl Leading Super Route Competition. I have already written a small piece for them so have a read if you interested - 

‘Leaving the Peak District in pouring rain to head to the Kendal Wall for the Petzl Leading Super Route Competition was a great pleasure, knowing that I wasn’t going to come back completely soaked from a days outdoor climbing. It was Steve McClure who invited me up for the event and on arrival it was great to see so many familiar faces. The Kendal Wall is built over a number of levels therefore a long lead wall competition like this does not stop regulars climbing in other parts of the wall whilst the lead competition is taking place. The route that Steve had set curved its way up the main head wall to finish in the top right hand corner. The climb was graded at around 8b and each competitor was allowed one flash go after it was demonstrated by Steve. The style was incredibly pumpy and relentless requiring some top level endurance and strength. After various coaching and master class sessions the lead competition got under way with a number of spectators giving it a good competitive atmosphere. There where some great efforts put in at all ages and as this was the first of such a competition it would be great to think that there will be more competitors next time. I was delighted to win and catch up with everyone.....

Many thanks for the invitation and to everyone at the Kendal Wall for there support and to Steve McClure for setting the challenging route. I look forward to the next meeting'

New Scarpa Booster S

The next day I felt Like I had been run over by a tractor. My whole body ached. Not to worry though, the sun was shining and Sam was already out the door waiting for me to get out of bed so we could head up to Millstone. No lie in for Edward. Upon arrival the two routes we wanted to try were wet so this called for a bru with Mike Hutton under a make shift boulder mat crib to shelter from the rain showers. The weather was very mixed that day but we battled through the wind and rain and both managed to climb 'The Bad and the Beautiful' (E7 6B) and before even sitting down for another cuppa, we then climbed 'Edge Lane' (E5 5B) Two amazing routes!!!

Sam on Edge Lane E5 5B

Who needs a belayer? Sam on the crux of Green death E5 6A

Me on Edge Lane E5 5B

Sam on Edge Lane E5 5B

Sam and Mike shelter from the wind and rain.....

Anyone need a professional rope coiler?

It was nearing the end of the day and our skin was a little thinner than we would have liked. I walked over to have a peek at Elm Street which has always looked impossible, but was intrigued to see what the moves felt like. A quick abseil down and the holds suddenly seem to appear, no good holds mind you! I made some good links and just decided to haver a go..... The first to goes went like a bag of turkish delight...so shit! On my 3rd goes I stuck the high crux and climbed to the top....Super happy! 'Elm Street' (E8 6C) Great day! Thanks again to Mike Hutton for taking some excellent pictures which will be floating around if you keep your eye's open ;-)

Me on the final moves of 'Elm Street' (E8 6C)

Good day out with the boyz......

CAC worldwide!!!!

Cheers

Egglswick the 4th