Catch up.....

The Last 3 months I have been training really hard mainly for the Kranj WC in Slovenia. I have also managed some good days out on the grit usually on my rest day.

First up was 'The Driven Bow' (E7 6C) up at Hen Cloud ,Staffordshire. This route climbs up the middle of a perfect gritstone face on small edges, the gear is good but pretty low so after  pulling through the crux your definitely on your own.

Anyway I made a successful ascent and also managed a short video here -

Next to fall was 'Gecko Blaster' (E7 6C) up at a crag called Shinning Cliff which I had never been to before but was really keen to check it out. Ethan and Sam had previously done the route so it was up to Dave, Myself and Andre to try and pull it out the bag. As usual Dave stepped up and made YET another impressive flash ascent, I then went for it and felt pretty gripped but topped out and then Andre climbed it to. Ethan also made quick work of Tom Randalls 'My Kai' (E8 7A - 2nd Ascent) good day all round.

After ticking those routes I decided to head over to The Roaches and see if I could finish off 'The Inertia Reel Traverse' (8A+). This for me is one of the best lines I have ever seen and have always wanted to climb it. Second time round the conditions felt much better and all I knew was I needed a good warm up and then I would do it. To tell you the truth the warm up went like shit but after a few laps on the middle section I felt ready to give it a go from the start. It went well and the toe hook stayed in on the crux which is pretty much the main things thats holding you on. Thats another off the all time tick list ;-)

I climbed to the end and here is the video -

Training continued as the world cup was looming, but I had 1 more weekend before heading off to Slovenia. Luckily it was a stunner so we bombed it up to Stanage and climbed two fantastic routes 'Shine On' (E7 6C) and 'Cemetery Waits' (E6 6B) both of which are solo's with pretty sketchy landings.

Shine On E7 6C

Cemetery Waits E6 6B

I finished my last training session which was spent climbing some easier routes at the foundry and then the next day headed off to Slovenia. The wall in Kranj is one of my favourites, steep and powerful and not to long. I wasn't to sure how I would feel having just taken 2 rest days but after some traversing I started to loosen up and got ready for the first Qualification route. On the first route I felt good and was definitely able to rest before the harder climbing. I managed to climb to the last section but the pump was to heavy to carry on. Next route I felt slightly more tired but again was able to rest where necessary and made it to a similar height as I did on the first. I was happy with how I climbed but hopefully next time I can make a few moves moves to push me into the Semis ;-) I finished in 29th - My highest position in a Senior 

It was great to meet up with old friends especially Jakob, Ruben and Franz. See you in Spain boyzzzz!!!

Ruben buildering in Kranj

Good look for Franz?

Major tosser ;-)

This last week I spent in London. I had some good sessions at The Arch and Westway and then headed over to Bristol to the TCA wall. I havent had a rest day since last weekend at the comp....Wasted :-)!!!!

Tubes are us

TCA Bristol training 

TCA masterclass ;-)

The Inertia Reel Traverse 8A+

SPAIN in 5 weeks!!!!!!!!

Just sending......

Since coming back from Spain its been a very busy 3 weeks!.

 First up was a weekend spent at Ilkley and Caley. The weather couldn't have been any better so we got straight on the classic 'Desperate Dan' (E6 - solo) after a quick play on top rope, both Sam and myself sent it!! It a wonderful route with some interesting holds half way up.  Next up was 'DeathWatch' (E7), this was a climb that I had always wanted to do after watching Lu dispatch it in the film Hard XS. We brushed it up and again both stood on the top with a smile on our face. The crimps and slopers are perfect, just dont take the fall. I finished the day by sending the problem 'Ring Piece' (V8+).

The Great Flake E6, Caley.

The weekend after came around very quickly and this time we had all planned to go try 'Paralogism' (E7 6c) at the Roaches. Warming up on the route felt horrible but after a few tope rope goes it started to feel much better! Katy went ahead and climbed the route with ease, Dave then flashed, Sam bezzed his arse up and so its was just me left having not climbed it, so I had to do it Right? yeah I did! Awesome route!

Paralogism E7 6C, Roaches

Sunday was the BLCC’s at the new Awesome Walls in Sheffield. It was a brilliant opening event for the centre and they did a great job.

 The main competition wall was super steep and long and the setting was perfect, testing everyone’s ability.  It was nice feeling to meet up again with some of the competition regulars with whom I had spent many happy international trips over the past years. Must just mention Molly who climbed magnificently and rightly took senior and Junior womens title.  The first 2 qualifiers where around 7c+ and 8a+.  After those I was into the final in second place behind a strong Canadian climber Elan Mcrae who was the only person to top both routes.  Amazing effort!  The final route was rumoured to be 8b, straight through the main roof. It was very physical and had a very interesting 360 spin half way up. Anyway I managed to punch my way through the big roof falling at the first hold at the last lip. Elan put in a great effort, falling short by a few holds. It was a great feeling to retain my British Lead Champion title and thanks to organizers and BMC for hosting a fantastic competition. Good luck to Awesome Walls for the future.

First Qualification (7c+) 

Final of BLCC (8b)

After the competition I seemed to pick up a finger injury which made for a very slow boring week but many a press up and pull up were done so things were not all bad  . Dave and myself did manage to sneek an ascent of 'Fat Slapper' (E7 6c) at Eastwood Rocks. This is another big gritstone roof with actual holds all the way up. No smearing, No trusting bullshit, just god damn crimp punching bevieness ....Cool route!!

That weekend Sam and myself had planned to head down to Wales to meet up with 3 different photographers Nadir Khan, Dan Wildey and Andy Nelson. The plan was to get some footage climbing the amazing 'Cenotaph Corner' up at the Cromlech. Joe brown made the first ascent of this using only pebbles for protection and a hemp rope tied around his waist back in 1952 and graded it E1!? Oh and I almost forgot he did it with socks on!! Your kidding me? After watching Sam climb the route a couple times BUT with all the new gear and actual climbing shoes, it still looked spicy and terrifying at E1.  Its amazing to think these guys and girls climbed routes of this standard back. Hats off!! Nice one Joe!! lets just say I'm glad I wasn't climbing back in 1950's.....Safe! Anyway, it was a great weekend! Also just quickly I did manage to climb 'Diesel Power' (8A) on the last day after shooting a few pics with Nadir on the roadside boulders.....Finger is getting better!!!!!

You can see more from Nadir at - http://www.nadirkhanphotography.co.uk/

Going to this!!!

Looking forward to this! get its booked!!!!

Booking Flights for Kranj World Cup! Psyched!!!

Rodellar.....

Well, I have just returned from a sweet 8 day trip to Rodellar in Spain. It would have been awesome to stay for longer but providing we new that London was calling the weekend after, that week was going to fit perfectly with other plans. This time it wasn't with Sam as he was going to be working but instead was with my Dad. He has just recently returned from working in Eritrea and was super keen to come out with me to Spain. We had checked the weather a few days before leaving and as always was looking AMAZING!!

Onwards to Kalandraka  ---->>

Day 1 - This first day didnt go to well. I think a mixture of not getting any sleep in the car the night before as well as not eating/drinking totally wiped me out. I decided to chill out for the rest of the day and most importantly get an early night.

Day 2 - After a decent 8 hour sleep I woke up feeling much better, I had decided to do as much mileage as I could around the 7b+ - 7c+ range. It went well and by the end of the day I had completed 10 routes all onsight. I also had a quick look at Hulk, managed all the moves and was psyched to give it another go.

Day 3 - I started the day by red-pointing 'Hulk' (8b+) in the Ali baba cave. This route felt pretty tricky to me as after having a couple goes I realised I cant toe hook for shit. In the end I used me heels which saved the day. We then headed back for a few drinks and I went for a 10 mile run. As the evening came round I was psyched to get back on the rock again so we headed to Ventanas and I managed to climb the classic 'A Crabita' (8a, onsight) Finished feeling fit ;-)

Day 4 - Straight back up to Ventanas where I warmed up on the super dynamic 'Via del Kim' (8a, onsight) then headed down to a wicked little sector called Maldita Codicia which practically sits in the middle of the river. I ticked a brilliant 7c and 7c+ which are both 5 star lines.

Day 5 - Ventanas was calling yet again, this time I went for a route called 'Citrus' (8a/+) this went down as a rather harsh warm up but the onsight was in the bag. Next up was 'Philipe Cuisiniere' (8b/+) The clips went in and after trying the moves I climbed the route on my 2nd attempt. What a fantastic climb!!!! After a good morning I headed down to try 'Welcome to Tijuana' (8c) again. I worked out a much better sequence for the top half and started going for serious red-points. I must have got through the start boulder about 4 times, 3 of which I fell on the top half and on the 4th I stuck the crux move and clipped the chains. This is one of my best days climbing by a long shot.

Lookiing back at the moves on Welcome...

Swing time after success on Ixeia!

Day 6 - It was a rather slow and cold start to the day but as the sun warmed us up we got our kit together and headed once again to Ventanas. I went straight for a route called 'Espirit Rebeld' (8a+/8b) I punched through the crux on my onsight but annoyingly I fell within a foot from the jugs, frustrated but happy with my effort! I rested a short while and then climbed to the top. AWESOME!!!! I then climbed a great route to the right called 'Montserrat' (8a/+, onsight) finishing the day with some amazing 7b+'s down at Aqest any si.

Welcome to Tijuana (8c)

Day 7 - The night before we had arranged with Jerome and Will to head over and check out La Piscineta for the day. On arrival I could barley contain myself. This wall was insane!!!! We all ticked this incredible (7b+) called 'Pim pam plouf'. Will and Jerome headed around the corner and climbed the almighty 'Adios Pepito (45m 8a, onsight). I managed to onsight 'Pieds nus dans le terre sacree' (8a) and 'Las dos golondrinas de la piscineta' (8a+) and finished the day with 'Adios Pepito'. I still cant believe how good that wall was. Will then climbed the stunning 'Cosi fan tutte (8a+). Good sends all round!!

Walking to Piscineta.....

Adios Pepito (8a)

Will crushing.....

Jerome cruzin the 7b+.....

Day 8 - Another steady morning chilling out playing table tennis and slack lining. Last day psyche got me up 'Ixeia' (8b+) 2nd go and a final big effort on 'Coliseum' (8a, onsight).

La Piscineta!!!

bare foot?

I would just like to say thanks to my Dad who supported me on that trip massively!! Rodellar is such a special place and I cant wait to return for some more 40m pumpers. Stoked!!!!

Going London for the weekend
 Bye x

Men of The Sea

Well I have just returned from a fantastic 2 weeks Deep Water Soloing and Surfing-ish down South. Myself, Al and Sam all headed down in the van to check out the DWS at Lulworth Cove. I can say now that this is one of the best crags in the Uk. The main wall is incredible, its 15m high at 45 degrees on perfect rock. We arrived in the evening and were both just to excited so had to go and have a climb. We ticked off a few of the easier classics such a 'Horny lil Devil' (7a) and 'Gates of Greyskull' (7b+) and finished the day with a jump off the top of Stair Hole.

 Day 1 - We had our sights set on 'Mark of the Beast' (7c), flipped a coin to see who had to go first and in this case it was Sam...Feeew!! Sam hiked up it with a flash under his belt so the pressure was on. It had been 2 years since first looking at the wall so it sure felt good to be pulling hard high up. I managed to send the route. Two flashes and a few easier link ups to end the day.

Day 2 - Conditions through out the day were pretty awful so we decided to chill and take the boards out for a few hours. The afternoon came around quickly and the tide was in. I managed to make an ascent of 'Pump up the Beast' (8a) and 'Adrenachrome' (8a), both route are BLOODY amazing!!. Sam and myself then when and ticked 'Animal Magnetism' (7a+) and 'CrAzY NoTiOn' (7a+). Al had a few good goes on Horny lil Devil but found it tricky to get the knee bar rest, but was keen to try again the next day.

Day 3 - Sam was raring to go and made an early morning ascent of 'Adrenachrome' (8a). Al stepped up and punched his way through Horny lil Devil (7a). Good times all round!!

 The week after consisted of sitting on the beach with a bit of surfing here and there and plenty of Fish&Chips. On the way home Sam had arranged to meet up with the beastly Andres at Berry Head. It was a rather shitty drive up but the psyche was high. The main objective was to climb 'Cutlass' (8a). After warming up a great juggy 6c and a sketchy 7a, we all felt ready. It was my turn to MAN up and go first, I went for it and came pretty close to flashing the route but was spat off of the drive by. Sam and Andre put in great efforts but also both end up in the drink. Rest, Rest, Rest.....I had another go and stuck the move which felt awesome and climbed to the top. There is a rather nasty move off a small pocket which had pulled some muscle in Sam's left arm so he decided to leave it for the day. Andre then had some brilliant goes almost gaining the top....Next time bro! A hour later Al and Sam were in the water again but this time spear fishing, nothing was caught but after just 30mins the 3 of us all wanted a Spear gun. The day ended just outside of Brixham in a sweet little pub where the food was perfect. The next day was a complete write off for climbing but was not completely wasted, we had a fishing rod and some mackerel as bate. The 3 of us reeled in decent sized Cod.
Dinner sorted!!! Great trip....Bugga the North ;-)

 

Sam looking like a royal Spear Fisherman.

 

Technical beasting 'Horny lil Devil (7a)

 'Gates of Greyskull' (7b+) crux...

 

 Luxury at Berry Head

 

 Backflip psyched after success.....

 

 The dark horse  

 

 Topping out on Gates.....

 

 'Animal Magnetism' (7a+) 

 

 Successful trippin at Lulworth

 

 Knee bar resting Heros

 

 Mark of the Beast (7c Flash)

 

 Uncontrollable psyche after Adrenachrome.. 

 

 

 

 

Climbing/Longboarding/Training

Well its been another beautiful week here in the Peak District. After 2 weeks working I got stuck into some training which has been going really well lately and managed a few new ticks outdoors. Recently I have been training a lot with Dave Mason which I think has helped me loads with my climbing as we are always pushing one another on through each session as well as climbing outdoors in between. Anyway first up was 'The Dark Room 8A. This is a rather unusual problem in a place called Odin's cave up above Castleton. On first arrival the cave and problem looked terrible and was feeling pretty de-psyched, but after a few hours spent working out the moves we both eventually found a way through the slopey dank roof but didnt have enough in the tank to finish the problem off that day. We ended the day with an excellent weight belt session at the foundry. A few days later it was back to The Dark Room, after warming up on the moves Dave and myself sent it quickly and actually really enjoyed the climb from start to finish.

The Dark Room 8A (Photo - Dave Mason)

. 

Il y a Stazi E8 6C...Nesscliffe psyche is still high!

Seriously good times end with the police being called...safe ;)

Campus training at home....

Enjoying rest days to the MAX on my Longboard.

After some good sessions on my longboard and training indoors, I managed to make an ascent of 'Byker Groove 7C and had a quick venture up past Stoney Middleton to check out a problem called 'Alacrity' 7C. It was unbelievably humid which proved for SUPER shitty conditions but some how I managed to pull through and stick the jug at the top. Psyched bruvlin ;)

Also just to finish 'SAM CLIMBED THE LOTUS FLOWER'!! I got a call from the lad a couple days ago with great news! When I put the phone down I got ridiculously psyched for them! Great effort lads! Hopefully I can join you next time ;)  

Here is the sweet little video that Dave put together of the Dark Room 8A

                               

Glastonbury, Work, Training and Perfect Rest Day!!

Well unfortunately this may be a rather dull post but I haven't been able to get out that much over the last 3 weeks so dont have all that much to write about (The weather has been amazing too). Sorry! The BBC's happened last weekend which was a load of greasy warm fun! I JUST made it to the semis and finished in 12th....at least it wasn't 10th!! 

News from Sam in Canada - They had there first go on the Lotus Flower and made it to pitch 11 but weather turned bad (Snow!) so had to retreat and are now taking some days off to let the shit weather pass before having another go ;) Hope they get some great weather!!

That's about it from me but hopefully a few of these pictures if you haven't seen them already may be slightly interesting or not haha ;)

Al and myself enjoying the sun at Glastonbury! (Amazing few days)

Yesterdays perfect rest day...10m jump!!

 (this was 30mins before we were then told that the police had been called out!!) 

Training two fingers...bloody grim!!

                                      

10 second hang.......ooooffftttt (heavy)

10 second hang.....death on a stick!!!!

8 second hang......

Fingers feeling the burn after 2 weeks work!!

Found this picture the other day! (What on earth am I wearing?)

Smile till the end ;)